Choose the embroidery setting by how the fabric behaves, not just what it's called. Stable wovens like twill and denim need the least help. Stretchy knits and deep-pile towels need stronger underlay and more pull compensation so shapes don't shrink or sink. Caps need to sew from the center outwards, and thin, light fabrics need a lighter fill so they don't pucker. In SatinSmith this is one choice in the Fabric panel. The right stabilizer does the rest.
What a fabric setting changes
- Underlay. Stitches sewn first, under the visible stitching. They hold the fabric in place and give the top stitches a base to sit on. Stretchy and lofty fabrics need more of it. See underlay explained.
- Pull compensation. Thread pulls fabric inwards as it sews, so shapes come out narrower than drawn. Pull compensation makes them slightly wider to make up for it. Knits usually pull in more than stable wovens. See pull compensation explained.
- Fill and sewing order. How heavy the fill is, and which parts sew first. Thin fabrics need a lighter fill; caps need to sew from the middle outwards.
The five fabric presets
Woven: twill, denim, canvas
For fabric that doesn't stretch: work shirts, denim jackets, canvas totes, aprons and twill patches. Stable fabric holds its shape while it's stitched, so it needs the least extra support. If you pull the fabric and it doesn't give, start here.
Knit: t-shirts, polos, hoodies
Knits stretch while they're hooped and while they're sewn. The Knit setting gives the design stronger underlay and more pull compensation, so fills don't shrink away from their outlines and small text doesn't narrow. Use it for jersey, piqué polos, sweatshirts and performance shirts.
Cap: structured hats
A cap front is curved and stiff, and it's sewn on a cap frame. The Cap setting sews from the center outwards, which pushes any slack fabric towards the sides instead of trapping it in the middle. That's the usual approach for structured baseball and trucker caps. More in how to embroider caps.
Towel: towels and fleece
Loops and pile swallow stitches. The Towel setting adds stronger underlay and more pull compensation so the design sits on top of the pile instead of sinking into it. Use it for bath and hand towels, robes, fleece blankets and fleece jackets.
Light: linen, silk, quilting cotton
Thin fabric puckers under heavy stitching. The Light setting uses a lighter fill so the fabric stays flat. Use it for linen napkins, silk and quilting cotton. Very large solid areas are still hard on thin fabric, so open shapes, outlines and lettering tend to suit it best.
Fabric, setting and stabilizer chart
The fabric setting handles the stitches. The stabilizer handles the fabric. You need both. These are common starting points; your stabilizer supplier's guidance and a test on the real fabric come first.
| Fabric | SatinSmith setting | Typical stabilizer |
|---|---|---|
| T-shirts and jersey | Knit | Cut-away (a light no-show mesh on thin, light-colored shirts) |
| Polos (piqué) | Knit | Cut-away; many add a water-soluble topping on textured piqué |
| Hoodies and sweatshirts | Knit | Cut-away |
| Denim, twill, canvas | Woven | Tear-away |
| Structured caps | Cap | Cap backing (a firm tear-away made for caps) |
| Towels | Towel | Tear-away or cut-away underneath, water-soluble topping on top |
| Fleece | Towel | Cut-away underneath, water-soluble topping on top |
| Linen, silk, quilting cotton | Light | Light cut-away such as no-show mesh |
The short version: cut-away for anything that stretches, because it stays in and keeps supporting the stitches wash after wash. Tear-away for stable wovens, which can carry the design on their own once it's sewn. A topping goes on top of pile fabrics so stitches don't sink between the loops.
How to set the fabric in SatinSmith
Start your design
Open the studio and add your artwork in the Artwork panel: upload an Image, type Lettering or describe an AI design.
Set the size first
Choose a size preset such as Left chest (90 mm, 3.5 in) or Sleeve (70 mm, 2.8 in), or type a Custom width. Small designs on stretchy or lofty fabric are the hardest to sew cleanly, so settle the size before you judge the stitch-out.
Pick the fabric preset
In the Fabric panel choose Woven, Knit, Cap, Towel or Light. A quick rule: if it stretches, choose Knit. If it has loops or pile, choose Towel. If you can see light through it, choose Light. If it's a structured hat, choose Cap. Otherwise, choose Woven.
Watch the new stitch-out
The design is stitched again with the new underlay, pull compensation and fill. Play it, then open View and set the fabric color to match the garment so you judge the design against the real background.
Check density and stitch count
Each fabric setting changes the underlay and fill, so the stitch count changes too. Look at Details for the new stitch count and machine time, and at Checks for thick spots. See how to read the preview and checks.
Hoop with the right stabilizer and test-sew
Hoop the garment with the stabilizer from the chart above, then sew a test on a spare blank or a scrap of the same fabric before the real job.
Questions
What stabilizer should I use for t-shirts?
Cut-away is the usual choice for t-shirts and other knits, because it stays in and keeps supporting the stitches as the shirt stretches and gets washed. On thin, light-colored shirts, a light no-show mesh cut-away is less likely to show through.
Do I need a topping for towels?
Usually, yes. A water-soluble topping keeps stitches from sinking between the loops, and the leftover film tears or rinses away after sewing. Pair it with the Towel setting, which adds stronger underlay for the same reason.
Can I use tear-away stabilizer on a polo shirt?
It's commonly advised against. Piqué knit stretches, and once tear-away is removed nothing supports the stitches, so the design can distort after a few washes. Cut-away is the safer choice for polos.
What happens if I pick the wrong fabric setting?
A design set for woven fabric and sewn on a knit polo can shrink, leave gaps between fills and outlines, or pucker. Going the other way, a knit setting on denim adds stitches you don't need. Match the setting to the garment and test-sew.